There it is, the last dip in the road before climbing that familiar hill... I hold my breath and wait for the big reveal. The top of the hill does not disappoint... my heart skips a beat as the vastness of Saunton Sands is revealed to our left. The overgrown sand dunes look like green waves spilling onto the beach. A prehistoric landscape creeping towards the sea since time began...
It never fails to impress and we usually have to stop the car to take it all in or there is always the risk of driving over the edge - Thelma & Louise style.
Around the corner from Saunton is the beautifully nestled Croyde Bay protected on either side by giant headlands as if trying to contain the secret for just that little bit longer. Croyde is a wonderful little place... Bustling in the summer and snug in the winter.
Follow the path along and you will wonder out onto Baggys point. A magnificent walk with breathtaking views and majestic cliffs, taking you all the way round until you reach the Pièce de résistance - Putsborough Beach. You just have to go and see it for your selves really as no words can really do it justice.
So after the 5:30 start from London, the four and a half hour drive to Devon, the road rage as you de-stress along the way... You finally reach that small corner of the world we like to call paradise. Its howling with wind, driving rain/hail (delete as appropriate) and there is only one thing for it... It's time to jump in for a surf!!
The adrenaline is pumping through my body... I don't know if I am shaking with excitement or hypothermia but non of it matters. It's time to slip into those winter wetsuits with the grace and elegance of a greased pig, but this is where the laughter starts. By the time we cover every part of exposed skin with wonderful rubbery neoprene our sides are already sore from laughing and we haven't even got into the water yet! One last job... The sex wax... Oh that sweet sent of coconuty goodness, you could almost see the palm trees if it wasn't for the thick dance fog that surrounds us.
Surfs up... There's nothing left to do now but leave your life behind you, run across beach and jump into the sea!!! By this time the sun is shining and the skys are blue! Rain what rain? A whole five minutes have passed since then...
As we wade out through the break the occasional wave washes over your head and you are quickly reminded what it feels like to be alive... That excited feeling is bubbling away in the pit of my stomach. We wait for a set to come our way and jump onto our boards. The trill takes over... Paddle! Paddle! Paddle! You catch the wave... The wave catches you... It really doesn't matter because all you are focused on is the unbelievable amount of fun you are having!! Hail stones pelt all the surfers as if trying to discourage them, dark ominous clouds roll in and release a torrent of thunder and lighting (that's OK... water doesn't conduct electricity, does it?) But none of it matters. Everything is washed away and all that is left is pure unadulterated fun... This goes on for hours... All four season wash over us before the sun comes out as if to catch a cheeky glimpse of what it's been missing. After all this is England.